Week 18
Day 120
Saturday 26th October 2019
Penang (George Town) to Kuala Kangsar.
Bit of a nightmare at the hotel with the air con yesterday evening, which rather than cooling the room heated it until it was like trying to sleep in the hot house at Kew. At midnight when it was around 30 degrees we asked for another room - after a bit of faffing we moved and finally got some sleep but the 6am alarm was not welcomed.
Rode through George Town early-ish! The heritage buildings, many crumbling, where amazing to see. We decided to ride over the Penang Bridge which connects George Town (an island) to the mainland - it’s 8.4 miles and has amazing views of the island, Malaysia and the oil refineries out to sea. It was breathtaking. We also had a boost when we saw that the amazing Karen Eastwood had asked Mark Beaumont to record a message for us. Thanks Karen. Also a massive thanks to Jen Graystone for organising the article in the hospital magazine- really appreciated.
We headed inland - the highlight being finding a Pizza Hut for lunch (sad I know)! It was hot and busy until the sky started to cloud over with the pending thunderstorm which hit around 4pm . It poured. We had the front tyre explode, (in the rain of course). That was the end of the Chinese imports we bought on our second day in Thailand. We had passed acres of palm trees - all producing palm oil. However, we finally started to climb towards Kuala Kangsar and into the rain forest. The cloud was low in the mountains and incredibly atmospheric. Arrived in Kuala Kangsar as it started to get dark. Found a trendy hotel with a cafe attached - it also has air con that works and hot chocolate!
Day 121
Sunday 27th October 2019
Kuala Kangsar to Sungkai.
Set off from a “cool” hotel called “the shop” fuelled with the best cappuccino since Europe and cheese cake.
We were high in the rain forest and the morning light was beautiful. We passed troops of monkeys and could hear the birds calling in the dense forest. It wasn’t long however before was saw evidence of deforestation- acres of rain forest being cut down to grow palms for palm oil. It’s a tragedy. We descended following a river passing through small rural villages with their traditional houses on stilts made of wood.
It was hot and very humid - at least there is a breeze while we rode but stopping in the sun was unbearable after only a few minutes. We stopped in a village where we bought freshly made roti (bread) fried on a griddle.
We then found ourselves in the wet flatlands - paddy fields and plantations of palms - but many flooded as rivers had burst their banks. We eventually found a restaurant or a series of restaurants where you can get buffet lunches of grilled fish, rice and curry. We tentatively chose a fish - head and all - with rice and sauce - it was good.
The heat was still building and we could see the sky getting darker before the afternoon downpour which was torrential. We found a cafe to sit out the worse of it. The sky became dark - to the point it was hard to see. We watched the rain to see if it eased. It didn’t so we set off. We watched the lightening crack across the sky as it poured. Arrived in Sungkai at a odd hotel where the receptionist is constantly on the phone yelling at the person he’s speaking with to the point the phone seems superfluous.
Day 122
Monday 28th October 2019
Sungkai to Kuala Lumpur.
Set off fuelled by quakers oat quick porridge and a disappointing instant coffee courtesy of 7/11.
We were on route for Kuala Lumpur following a main road for most of the day through towns and villages. We saw more plantations of palm trees and yet more deforestation. We saw monkeys in the trees and a crocodile (yes apparently there are crocodiles in Malaysia).
Stopped for lunch of rice and tofu with 25 miles to go - then pressed on climbing into the Rain Forest as it started to rain. It is truly beautiful and atmospheric with the cloud sitting low on the mountains.
A steep descent, in the wet, following a river with views of a large dam before entering the suburbs of KL and the usual frenetic traffic when riding in any large capital.
We passed squares and museums - and large malls which are common place in every capital. We gazed up at the sky scrapers, saw a building on fire and got lost in the complex road system finally deciding to find a hotel rather than head for a bike shop as planned. Bike shop in the morning to stock up on a spare tire before heading south towards Singapore.
Day 123
Tuesday 29th October 2019
Kuala Lumpur to Taman Suria.
Arrived at breakfast with about 100 Buddhist monks all descending on the breakfast buffet. Apparently they were on a bus tour from Sri Lanka! I said that I liked the colour of their robes (well what else do you say to a monk).
We set off heading for the Petronas Towers, which were the tallest buildings in the world until 2004. They are very ornate - chrome and glass with massive lightening conductors on the top. We rode through KL with its massive sky scrapers and trees - a real contrast. It was incredible to gaze up at the towers with the sun rising between them.
We had hoped to get to a bike shop in KL but they opened too late so we set off in the rush hour traffic out of KL. It was busy, hot and hilly. We were over 30 miles into the ride before we left the urban sprawl behind us.
We again saw evidence of systematic deforestation. We also climbed into the rain forest where we saw monkeys in the trees.
We searched for a bike shop in the next town but couldn’t find one. Our route then took us through some rural communities where we ran the gauntlet of bulls, chickens (and chicks), guinea fowl and multiple dogs - many of which decided to chase us, (we haven’t been chased properly, (with effort on behalf of the dogs), since Greece).
It was starting to get late when we spotted a local market selling food and drinks. We stopped - found food and also a bike shop where we got an emergency bright red tire for £4 .
We carried on past more plantations of palm finally arriving at the coast and following the coast road in search of accommodation.
Day 124
Wednesday 30th November 2019
Taman Suria to Batu Pahat.
Woke to the sound of a thunderstorm and the sea.
Set off heading along the coast road through villages and past beach resorts. Stopped for tea and roti (fried bread) just outside an army base. We saw the cycling team going out for a ride. Tried to get through the camp (the route took us this way) but got stopped by MPs (military police as opposed to members of parliament). Had to do a big big detour around the camp. Headed slightly inland then south.
Found a Starbucks where we lingered to long drinking cappuccino and eating cake.
Went through the lovely Muar with Chinese lanterns lining our route. Found an amazing cycle shop where we finally found schwalbe tires, and some cream for the saddle sore. Continued south stopping for roti and tea. Finally arrived in Batu Pahat where we went in search of food. Tried a sea food restaurant which only sold chicken. Wandered into town. Sitting outside with Sheffield United v West Ham on the TV.
Day 125
Thursday 31st October 2019
Batu Pahat Singapore.
We got up early for the long ride into Singapore. This was our last day of riding in Asia and it has been an amazing experience but we are both looking forward to some time off the bike and to the next stage of our journey across Australia.
We headed up the coastal road making good progress until our route took us through a palm plantation where the roads had been changed and we soon found ourselves on a grassy track. We backtracked to the main road.
We stopped for tea and found a dominos pizza where it got complicated as we were running out of Malaysian money. I ordered pizza and Raz went to the ATM - it didn’t work. After enquiring at the bank, Raz was taken by the security guard into the town where another ATM guarded by guard with a large shot gun finally gave us some money. I definitely got the better deal.
The border crossing was like a cycling proficiency test on steroids. Hills, sharp narrow turns, small booths, Rain grill with gaps tire width and multiple speed bumps. After 3 attempts we found the right window to leave Malaysia and had whistle blown at us for going the wrong way when trying to get into Singapore.
We were then on the busy highway heading into Singapore- it was exciting. We passed the zoo and Raffles. We cycled up the main shopping street with its expensive shops and neon signs. We finally found a hotel. They are all expensive and we needed to find somewhere for Alice (tandem) but it’s nice and has a terrace with amazing views across the city.
Our Asian leg which started in Istanbul, took us across Turkey, Georgia, India, Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore is over. We have cycled over 8674 miles and are ahead of schedule to break the record and looking forward to a few days off.
Day 126/ 127
Friday 1st November 2019
Singapore
Wow a day off! Having ridden from Mandalay with only half a day off (as a result of D&V) we were looking forward to having time off the bike. We also had lots of jobs to do - including a haircut as I was starting to take on the appearance of Einstein which was slightly disconcerting. We took a very expensive taxi ride to find a laundry then walked back through china town where I got a haircut and Raz had her fringe cut even though she objected to the $5 charge. We stocked up on toothpaste (I remember the lovely Cheryl Reid suggesting a toothbrush was a luxury item but we decided to put it on the essential list). We drank coffee and ate cake! Both feeling tired. Sometimes when we get off the bike it feels like we are still riding - a bit like being on a long bus journey or on a boat. We rode over 100 miles into Singapore after 27 days of riding everyday and it’s sometimes hard to sleep. Our bums have suffered too - particularly because of the heat, humidity and monsoon rain and we are hoping a few days off the saddle will enable them to recover.
Singapore is an amazing place - very much like a big European city but with an Asian twist - and incredibly clean. It is odd to see other Europeans and it’s also really busy - although we are used to traffic - we are not used to busy pavements (unless I take a wrong turn).
We are planning for Australia looking at the route and thinking about how we will cross the Nullabore desert - hoping that the wind is kind to us.
Yesterday we were also thinking of Ruth Hargreaves- John and Jamie the brilliant team at JD Tandems which have helped and supported our trip. Thanks.
We went in search of bike boxes so we could pack up Alice. We went to 3 bike shops but couldn’t find any. We did a ring around all the other bike shops - but still no boxes. We ended up having to buy two bike bags. We then spent about 3 hours in the cellar the the hotel (which was incredibly hot) cleaning and packing Alice. We went for a walk - not exactly to cool down - but we did see Raffles and the amazing Singapore skyline at night.
Today was an admin day sorting out the evidence we need to submit to Guinness and getting to the airport for our flight to Perth. Just at the airport watching the rugby. Come on England.
