Week 19

Day 127

Saturday 2nd November 2019

Today was an admin day sorting out the evidence we need to submit to Guinness and getting to the airport for our flight to Perth.

Day 128/129

Sunday and Monday 3rd and 4th November 2019

Singapore to Perth to York.

Arrived in Perth late on the evening of day 127. We were met by the lovely and incredibly supportive Sue and Nigel Laing with boxes containing new #stolengoat - thanks Andy Gorman an #ortlieb bag, our tent courtesy of the wonderful Zailia and tent poles sorted by the fab Rich Locker. It was like Christmas.

Day 128

Perth. After getting very excited about muesli and skimmed milk, we put Alice (tandem) together and rode across Perth following the Swan river to #GlenParkerCycles where Alice was booked in for a full service. We left her in capable hands. Sue and Nigel took us for lunch in the botanical garden with views across the City - smashed avocado had been a fantasy for many weeks and it was finally realised. We then dragged poor Sue and Nigel around Perth in search of a mallet and energy snacks.

We were interviewed by ABC (Australian Broadcasting Company) - which was played this morning.

We stayed over night with Sue and Nigel and met their lovely family over dinner where we bored them with tails of Indian hotels. It was lovely and everyone was incredibly kind and supportive. A massive thank you!

Day 129

Perth to York. An early start after a lovely breakfast took us into Perth to meet the team at the MNDA WA (Western Australia). Sarah Wiley was particularly brilliant - buying great coffee and lunch. It was great to meet the team and other charities in the same building many of which had heard our interview in the morning and came to say Hello.

After photos and chatting we finally set off saying good bye to Sue, Nigel, Sarah and the team. We also acquired a new mascot- an MNDA puppy, (which I keep sitting on), to keep Nik the Stolen Goat company.

We set off through the beautiful botanical gardens with trees dedicated to fallen soldiers and views of the river and into the centre of Perth. It wasn’t long before we hit the hills - aptly named the Perth Hills. I was followed by a swarm of flies not in a dissimilar way to that of Pigpen from Charlie Brown. They don’t seem interested in Raz.

We soon found ourselves on a gravel road looking out for black cockatoo. The countryside was simply stunning. Open plains often tree lined - teeming with wildlife including cockatoos, parrots and magpies. We were followed by a flock of cockatoos and parrots all squawking- it was magical.

Amazingly we were offer a free night’s accommodation at the utterly beautiful #hopefarmguesthouse in York - courtesy of Jo who even arranged dinner for our arrival. Anyone travelling around Perth must stay here it’s lovely. We are saving the camping for another night!

Day 130

Tuesday 5th November 2019

York to Kellerberrin.

Woke up in the lovely #HopeFarmGuestHouse - had a wonderful breakfast (award winning eggs apparently) and set off into York with Mike (our host) who was dressed in a bright blue suite riding a penny farthing (as you do).

We had a few looks as we rode up the Main Street which is beautiful and full of heritage buildings. We stopped outside the Town Hall which is famous because of its age and design. A quick photo shoot and we said good bye to Mike and Jo who had been incredibly kind and hospitable sharing their fabulous home.

We set off - avoiding the main highway but heading East. We are on route to Adelaide passing through the Nullabore Desert from Perth which is around 1,700 miles. We passed by massive fields of wheat ready for harvest with a smattering of trees and shrubs at the side of the road. The route was lumpy and we gradually climbed most of the day. The trees are full of birds, Galla, Parrots, Magpie and others I didn’t know. The sky was massive and were passed by few vehicles. It was hot. Occasionally we saw one of the massive Road Trains which roar along the road at high speeds generating a massive wind. We pulled to the side of the road as they passed.

It was over 50 mile before we came to the next town. We found a hotel in the process of being renovated and we were treated to a pizza and regaled with tales of a distant dead uncle who cycled up Alp D’ Huez 45 minutes slower than Lance Armstrong (I wasn’t convinced this was really a claim to fame). They also decided we must be academics - we did look tired and dehydrated and Raz was having a noise bleed so maybe this added to the mystique.

We set off again stopping at a campsite for the evening at Kellerberrin where we have been given a free site for the night. Australians are incredibly generous and supportive.

Day 131

Wednesday 6th November 2019

Kellerberrin to Carrabin.

Left the campsite heading for the main highway east. The communities are small and the distances between shops are long. In between the communities are massive wheat fields. This is the heart of the wheat belt.

We stopped at the only general store for 40km about 10 miles into the ride. The owner made us coffee and we bought head-nets as the flies are a nightmare.

It was a slow and gradual assent for most of the day made harder when we realised the back tire had a slow puncture. We stopped to fix it finding some shade as we worked.

We carried on to Merredin where we found a great cafe for lunch and stocked up on supplies.

We rode on to Carrabin and camped near one of the road houses. We are just about to be chucked out of the bar (7.30) as the they want to lock up. We need an early night - which is just as well

Day 132

Thursday 7th November 2019

Carrabin to Yellowdine Nature Reserve.

Having been locked out of the campsite toilets and showers by “grumpy” Joan the roadhouse owner, we decided to leave early. The early morning cycling was nice - cold for a change. We stopped for coffee and were dismayed that the coffee machine was broken.

We were heading for Southern Cross - for lunch and to stock up on water before riding 187km to Coolgarie as we knew there would be few, if any, places to get water on route.

We met Carla and Matt two fellow Brits who had just cycled through the Nullabore. It was great to hear from them about water supplies and places to stop. We also ran into Michael, another Brit who had cycled from Sydney.

We arrived at Southern Cross - had coffee, filled up the water and bought food. Alice (tandem) was very heavy - and we were still gradually climbing, so the going was slow.

The scenery has changed. We have left the wheat behind and entered a forest of low bushes and trees. It’s very beautiful. The soil is sandy and red with the iron ore. We saw two Emus running along the road and some wonderful cockatoos with red crests.

We stopped at a garage hoping for a cup of tea - only to be told (with some relish) that they were closed and the next one was 180km away. Good job we stocked up earlier. We stopped to wild camp in the nature reserve. The sunset was lovely and the stars are out.

Day 133

Friday 8th November 2019

Yellowdine Nature Reserve to Coolgarie.

Woke early in our wild camp. We wanted an early start for the long ride into Coolgarie. It’s cold in the morning until around 10am then it’s gets very hot!

Today we had a brutal head wind - which was energy sapping. We were also still climbing through the National Parks and Nature Reserves. The countryside was beautiful- scrub land and trees as far as we could see. The road stretched out ahead. The Road Trains thundered by. We saw a massive Emu run across the road. It felt very remote - and it was! The soil is sandy and full of iron ore making it red- it is iconic Australia.

There was no where to stop for water or food until we got to Coolgarie - so we pulled off the road for breaks.

We finally arrived in Coolgarie as we were running out of water. We pulled into a garage, the first one since Southern Cross, and were grateful for a drink.

We found a campsite and were joined by a guy who is telling us about his divorce and the money he owes. We are attempting to escape - fingers crossed we do.