Week 23
Day 155
Saturday 30th November 2019
MacArthur to Port Campbell.
We said our good byes to Jenny and John after breakfast and set off heading for the coast. It was cold - the first time in Australia. Our feet were freezing in our sandals. We cycled through lovely countryside - this is diary land - lots of cattle and sheep - but no cafes. We also saw kangaroos and a fox cub - and did a bit of off road on a gravel track.
Just over 40 miles into the ride we came into Koroit where we found a cafe - after coffee we started to warm up. Koroit is on the edge of a volcano crater. After a climb we cycled along it and had an amazing view of the ocean and the lake inside the crater.
We headed to Warrnambool where we had more coffee and free banana cake and officially joined the The Great Ocean Road a 243-kilometre stretch of road along the south-eastern coast of Australia between the Victorian cities of Torquay and Allansford, which is famed to be one of the most beautiful stretches of highway in the world.
Certainly the scenery is beautiful- eucalyptus trees and distant views of the ocean.
We finally arrived in Port Campbell and are looking forward to seeing iconic views of the twelve apostles tomorrow.
Day 156
Sunday 1st December 2019
Port Campbell to Kennett River.
Woke up to the rain and it was cold. Set off along the Great Ocean Road. The scenery was moorland with spectacular views of the sea. It was beautiful but very raw in the cold and the rain. We could have been in the North Yorkshire Moors in October.
As we rode we thought about our Mum’s - it was my Mum’s birthday - happy birthday Audrey Dixon . I miss you.
We stopped at the twelve apostles - we were the only people there. They are spectacular especially in the rain with the sun occasionally shining through the grey clouds.
We carried on turning inland and climbing the famed Laver Hill. It was 10 degrees on the coast and got colder as we climbed. It had got to the stage of wearing socks and sandals but thin socks and fingerless gloves meant our hands and feet were freezing.
The climb was beautiful spectacular- amazing rain forest- we could see black cockatoos flying overhead. The trees were massive - eucalyptus and others.
We finally reached the top - in spite of climbing we were cold. We sat in a cafe drinking tea trying to warm up for the descent. We lingered too long but finally set off - there was hail on the way down and my breath was freezing.
We finally made it to the coast (interestingly the Great Ocean Road - has lots in inland). We went Inland again for another big climb and we finally arrived in Apollo Bay. On reflection we should have stayed here! We warmed up in a cafe and decided to carry on up the coast towards Melbourne.
This stretch of coast is beautiful- sandy beaches, dramatic coves, cliffs, crashing blue sea - stunning. There were also some spectacular rainbows. It was magical.
After a few miles we stopped to try to find accommodation- everywhere appeared closed.
We saw a koala in a tree which was amazing - and finally arrived in Kennett River, where there is a campsite.
It was pouring down and reception was closed. We searched for staff - non one was there. We called a number for the campsite given to us by a local - no one answered. We thought we would pitch and pay in the morning.
We were just eating when two members of staff appeared and asked what we were doing (which was kind of obvious). They said we were trespassing (which wasn’t legally correct) - we explained we were happy to pay but the reception was closed when we arrived - they they were unpleasant and rude.
Raz went to reception where the owner threatened her coming around the counter to try to kick her. It was bonkers (or she was). Raz filmed her - as it was so threatening. If we could have left we would have - but it was dark.
To add to our general misery a fox ran off with our breakfast - raisen bread and cheese. We got into our tent and tried to get some sleep - it was cold and wet.
Day 157
Monday 2nd December 2019
Kennett River to Geelong (then Melbourne)
We woke up in a wet tent. It had rained most of the night and we were keen to pack up and leave (as a result of the behaviour of the owner the day before).
We were joined by parrots as we packed up the tent. They were incredibly tame - perching in the tent poles (and all over the tent) as we tried to pack up.
We headed to the lovely Kafe Koala owned by Lawrence. We mentioned our encounter at the campsite the night before and apparently we were not unique - there seems to be a pattern of odd behaviour.
We ate a big plate of pancakes and felt better. We headed off along the most beautiful stretch of coastline. The route was undulating- we climbed out of the towns on route with views along the coast. The beaches are gorgeous- sandy and the sea is turquoise.
It was however still cold - really cold. It felt like a winter ride - which we wouldn’t normally do in sandals and fingerless gloves.
We are meeting with Oxfam tomorrow so we decided to get the ferry from Geelong avoiding the busy highway into Melbourne (we are also well up on mileage). The ferry departed at 3pm. We rode hard in the wind and rain to catch but couldn’t find it so jumped on a train instead (which is (allowed as long as we don’t count the mileage).
We met up with Jonathan Coles a distant cousin of Raz’s (the family tree is too complicated to describe accurately). We went for a drink - the waitress managed to spill the drinks all over Jonathan and hand me a beer bottle with a chipped top - definitely one of those days. It was lovely to meet him and here about life in Melbourne.
We also had lovely accommodation staying with Jenny and Lynton- who made a fantastic meal. We discussed Brexit. The conclusion is that it’s definitely worth cycling around the world to escape it.
Day 158
Tuesday 3rd December 2019
Melbourne (via Oxfam) to Broadford.
Said our good byes to Jenny and Lynton after a hearty breakfast and headed into the centre of Melbourne to meet the Oxfam team. We met the lovely Tania who gave us a traditional welcome and talked to us about the work of Oxfam Australia in particular, their work to support the indigenous people of Australia and in support of women.
We met a number of the team, ate Lamintons and had a look around. We came away inspired and full of admiration for Oxfam’s work.
It was also brilliant to hear that Raz had won the prestigious international allied health professional award for services to MND. Very well deserved.
We bought gloves and overshoes in Melbourne as it was still cold and had coffee in Starbucks. A number of people approached us admiring Alice (who was showing off outside), and asked about our trip including Jennifer from watcac.org - the tandem club in West Australia.
We finally set off heading out of Melbourne into the suburbs and then the countryside.
Alice clearly wanted to stay in Melbourne - (too much attention) as she immediately upon leaving somewhere with plentiful bike shops decided to break her front derailleur - this clearly wasn’t enough so she decided to have a back tire puncture too.
We arrived in Broadford where we met a track cycle judge who had disqualified Chris Hoy in the World Cup .
We spent the rest of the evening trying to fix Alice.
Day 159
Wednesday 4th December 2019
Broadford to Shepparton.
Spent the evening mending Alice but are still having problems with her front derailleur - so we decided to go in search of a bike shop.
We left Broadford with a take away coffee. We passed through farm land. - Watching the cockatoos, parrots and herons. The start of the day was undulating and it was hard up the hills with no ability to shift down our gears. We hoped to find a bike shop in Seymour were there is a Vietnam War Memorial- but no bike shop.
We set off at a dash for Shepparton to get there before the shops closed. We punctured - fixed it and on arrival in Shepparton headed for #LeighEganCycles. We met Leigh who had been a world champion BMX rider. He had a wall full of trophies, medals and pictures. He worked on Alice - the problem being the shifter which is now working better but is not entirely fixed. Leigh also gave us some inter tubes and spare parts - he was brilliant and has a great bike shop. Thanks Leigh.
Day 160
Thursday 5th December 2019
Shepparton to Oaklands.
Stopped for an early morning coffee in Shepparton then headed out of town searching for the country roads as we made our way through farmland on route to Brisbane.
The parrots were squawking and the fields were massive expanses of wheat - interspersed with sheep, cows and horses.
We also passed by vineyards and orchards of fruit trees. We followed a river eventually crossing it and entering New South Wales.
We found a couple of nice cafes on route. Alice (tandem) more or less behaved herself - all was good in the world.
We eventually stopped at Oaklands - entered the pub in search of accommodation and met Wayne, Rob and Damo - who invited us to their club for dinner.
We pitched our tent at the pub (for free) and headed over to the club not really sure what to expect. The club was the Oakland’s RSL and Bowling Club (Returning Solider’s League) - we were made so welcome it was wonderful. The local community was there in force. Leanne, the secretary of the club, told everyone what we we doing and the community kindly donated their raffle monies to us. We were totally overwhelmed. We met Mel whose mother had unfortunately died of MND and chatted to Amy, Chase, Talara, Wayne, Dano and Rob. After photos we headed back to the tent reflecting on the amazing generosity of the Oaklands’ community and of the many people who have supported our ride. Thanks Oaklands.
Day 161
Friday 6th December 2019
Oaklands to Wagga Wagga.
We left Oaklands feeling inspired by the generosity of the RSL club and the local community.
We cycled through a massive expanse of fields and sky. The world felt incredibly big as gazed at massive bails of wheat stacked in fields as far as the horizon.
Truck drivers we met the night before, waved to us and blew their horns (in a good way). We saw families of Emu running across the fields.
We stopped for coffee in a small town which had a massive solider’s league building - we have seen similar buildings in other towns - perhaps reflecting when the communities were larger before farms became more mechanised.
We stopped for lunch in Lockhart and met two fellow tandem riders from Scotland - Alan and Wendy who were riding from Canberra to Melbourne. It was lovely to hear about their travels and for Alice (tandem) to have some company for a change.
We finally arrived in Wagga Wagga where we met the incredibly generous and lovely Fiona and Richard who had driven over from Kiama to meet us and treat us to dinner. After dragging them to the laundrette it was wonderful to spend the evening with friends.
Fiona and Richard had been delayed getting to Wagga Wagga because of the bush fires burning along the east coast. We are closely looking at our route to make sure we avoid the fires and the smoke which is particularly bad in the Sydney basin.
Looking forward to a night in a motel - luxury
