Week 26 :: TandemWOW

Week 26

21 Dec 2019
Mark

Day 176

Saturday 21st December 2019

Omarama to Timaru.

Woke up to a beautiful blue sky - but it was cold. We set off with the backdrop of the snow capped mountains surrounding Aoraki (Mount Cook) the highest mountain in New Zealand. It was stunning. We were towards the coast - passing lakes with crystal blue waters and towards Otematata where we stopped for coffee (not at McDonalds ) at a traditional caravan at the side of the road - where we were given free coffee and muffins which were fantastic.

We carried on to Kurow following a river punctuated by a series of hydro dams - which added to the dramatic landscape.

The wind was picking up and although the route was relatively flat it was incredibly hard riding against the wind. The scenery changed from mountain landscape to farm land. We carried on down a magnificent gorge and into Waimate where in desperation we stopped at a grotty cafe eating left over sandwiches as there was nothing else left.

We pressed onto the coast stopping for a brief chat with the local GP who stopped at the side of the road to say hello.

We finally saw the Pacific Ocean and carried on up the coast arriving late and generally fatigued (knackered) in Timaru.

Day 177

Sunday 22nd DEcember 2019

Timaru to Christchurch.

Today was one of those long days when you simply put your head down and ride. We were on a long stretch of highway passing through farmland on the way to Christchurch. We had a headwind and the road was busy.

We stopped at a great cafe for breakfast - the food in New Zealand is pretty good. We stopped again for lunch where an Indian family asked all the usual questions about the ride (less the question about how old we are) - which took us back our ride through India.

This got us thinking about the top most irritating things to say to us when we are riding Alice - this is the list so far.

- She’s not pedalling at the back!
- Do you know when she’s not pedalling?
- That’s cheating!
- Where’s the motor?
- It must be easier with two of you!
- You’ve got a lots of luggage!
- How old are you?
- Where are the gents?
- Cycled from England? - did you swim?

I’m sure there are other comments- if you have good one’s from your own experiences - let us know.

We arrived at the brilliant #AmalfiMotel in Christchurch where we got a fantastic discount, breakfast and our washing done.

Day 178

Monday 23rd December 2019

Christchurch to Kaikoura.

Set off from Christchurch, waved off by the lovely women at the motel who was still in her dressing gown.

We knew that today would be a long and hilly ride - about 115 miles to Kaikoura - the plan being to make it to Wellington for Christmas Day. The road was busy as we headed out of Christchurch- lots of people heading on holiday.

We stopped for second breakfast in Kaiapoi - then headed north. It was overcast but much warmer than the previous days. The wind was due to change direction and be behind us - but unfortunately we were still riding into a headwind. We stopped for left over pizza (night before) - then hit the hills.

The scenery was beautiful as we headed along the Greta valley stopping a couple of times at one brilliant cafe and another that really wasn’t - especially as they were keen to close! The hills were steep and the road undulated with sweeping descents.We finally arrived at the top of the last big hill only to see a man from China arrive at the same time from the other direction. About the last thing you expect to see is a Chinese man who doesn’t speak a word of English on top of a hill in the middle of no where at 8.30pm - but there he was. I don’t think he had ever seen a tandem. After the obligatory selfies we set off down towards the coast.

We finally arrived at the coast which was stunning in the evening light and rode the final 15 miles into Kaikoura. The light was beautiful and the waves crashed - it was magical.

We finally arrived in Kaikoura just before 10pm. Every motel we passed was either full or closed. We finally saw one with its lights still on. Just as we approached the light went off. We rode Alice hard to the front door - mounting their pavement as we rang the bell.

Fortunately we got a room and the owner went out to get us fish and chips (rescuing a hedgehog on route).

Day 179

Tuesday 24th December 2019

Kaikoura to Picton (ferry to Wellington).

We left Kaikoura travelling along the beautiful and amazing coastline. The weather was perfect - blue sky but not too hot. The wind was finally with us. It was an amazing day to be on the bike.

We stopped and tried to spot seals (including cubs) hiding in the rocks. It was magical (see if you can see them in the rocks in the photos below - it’s our Christmas Quiz).

We also stopped at a cafe called the Shop - and were served the smallest ever bagels - which was perfectly presented but eaten in a couple of bites. The shop refused to fill up our water bottles as they unfortunately had no cold water. We had to stop again at a greasy spoon as we were still starving.

us and started climbing through the hills - again reminiscent of Scotland with velvety mountains. We rode past amazing vine yards with the vines in regimented lines as far as we could see (a total contrast to what we saw in Australia where many of the vines we passed were dying because of the drought).

We finally arrived in Picton where we are catching the ferry at 10.15pm to take us to Wellington where we are staying with Tricia Sloan and Helen Bradford who are brilliantly rearranging their Christmas for us.

Everything in Picton was shut - apart from Subway where I was instructed on exactly where to queue for my falafel wrap by the women serving us (apparently I was about a metre too far to the left and not directly behind the sign- I did make her smile in the end).

We finally got into the queue for the ferry chatting to the staff and standing under their heater to keep warm.

We are currently on the ferry and have decided that we both need a shower (no one is sitting near us) - so are really looking forward to a few home comforts over Christmas with Tricia and Helen.

A massive thank you to everyone following us for your support with our journey and for our charities - especially at Christmas it really means a lot. Happy Christmas Eve

Day 180/181

Wednesday & Thursday 25th &26th December 2019

Wellington to Carterton.

We arrived in Wellington off the ferry at around 1am Christmas Day morning. We cycled a convoluted route into Wellington up and down several hills to add to the climbing total for the day . We knocked tentatively at the door at 2am getting poor Tricia Sloan out of bed! Finally went to sleep around 3 am - it was a long day out.

Had a bit of a lie in (I know a bit extravagant ) followed by a lovely breakfast before setting off on Christmas Day morning for what we thought would be a short ride .

We made our way out of Wellington - back over the hills of the night before and out into the countryside heading for the Rimutaka Hills - which we discovered were pretty steep! We finally made it to the top with fantastic views across the valley. We arrived in Carterton just in time for a hot tub then dinner with Helen Bradford and Tricia. Perfect.

Day 181

Boxing Day Carterton. We had a day off the bike today. Enjoyed a bit of a lie in. Did some admin stuff and headed to the Castle Point at the coast for a walk with Helen and Tricia and their dogs. Managed to walk up a hill (with some difficultly as I seem to have lost the ability to walk) - and took in the fantastic views along the coast. Back for dinner and more sorting! A massive thank you to Helen and Tricia for spending their Christmas with us and their amazing hospitality. Back on the bike tomorrow.

Day 182

Friday 27th December 2019

Carterton to Dannevirke .

Said our good byes to Helen Bradford and Tricia Sloan (Helen rode a little way with us in her New Zealand kit) - and headed off on route heading to towards Napier (where Raz used to live). We climbed steadily up Mount Bruce passing beautiful scenery- woodland and streams.

We stopped at the lovely Pukaha National Wildlife Center for coffee and tried to spot parrots in the trees. It was lovely.

We cycled down hill for a while but into a head and side wind which was getting stronger as the day went on.

We stopped again at Pahiatua at a cafe with a colourful clientele and an interesting toilet covered in graffiti- least there was something to read.

It was great when we finally out off the main road and followed country lanes to Dannevirke. The drivers in New Zealand are some of the worse we have encountered - giving us little room and with some shouting abuse out of their windows even when we are riding on the practically unrideable hard shoulder - which is a complete contrast with the people we meet and chat to on route.