Week 27 :: TandemWOW

Week 27

28 Dec 2019
Mark

Day 183

Saturday 28th December 2019

Dannevirke to Napier.

It was chilly as we packed up the tent and ate breakfast in the campsite kitchen. We set off in search of coffee and found it in a cafe dedicated to trucks -(the cafe was covered in truck pictures ).

We continued climbing - and passed by Norsewood following the edge of the Ruahine Forest and finally started to descend. It was cold and windy and it started to rain. We made it to a cafe in Waipukurau and ordered soup to warm up. It doesn’t feel like summer.

The scenery was beautiful. Rolling hills with mountains in the background. The vegetation is lush and green - a complete contrast to Australia with its terrible drought. The roads were busy with holiday traffic but we finally made it to Hastings were we stopped for a drink as my shorts were feeling particularly uncomfortable. I discovered that I’d managed to accumulate a load of spiky grass seeds in my shorts - the hazard of stopping at the side of the road.

We arrived in Napier with it’s fantastic view of the ocean. We’re with the lovely Marg and I’m hearing all about Raz’s time in Napier in 1996 - with photographic evidence of parties and of Raz looking about 12 year’s old and doing something with a fish (catching it allegedly)

Day 184

Sunday 29th December 2019

Napier to Tarawera Cafe (on route to Taupo).

Woke up to a fantastic view of the Ocean. It was a beautiful day. Blue sky - not a cloud in sight. We ate toast with Marg then said our good byes as we headed into Napier to visit with friends of Raz before we set off on route to Taupo.

Napier is lovely - we cycled along the sea front and through the marina. Napier is famous for its Art Deco and was substantively rebuilt after an earthquake in the 1970s. It is flanked with wetlands which are teeming with birds.

We were visiting Sam and Durelle and their grandsons Ben and Sam. Their house was near the top of a steep hill with amazing views over Napier. It was certainly a warm up for the big climb later in the day. It was lovely to meet the family.

We set off around 11am and headed out of town. The route to Taupo is very hilly with some steep sections - gradient around 15% so it was hard.

The scenery was however breathtaking. Woodland, mountains, rivers and streams. The riding was hard as a result of the gradient but also because of the drivers who came incredibly close as we tried so ride on the almost none existent hard shoulder. It was also hot - our first really hot day in New Zealand- in fact the road was melting.

In spite of the drivers - the ride was fantastic and certainly some of the best scenery of our trip so far.

We arrived at the Tarawera Cafe only to find it closed. Raz knocked on the door and the owner kindly sold us tea, sandwiches and cakes. We set up camp near the public toilets next to the cafe only to meet a fellow cyclists from the UK called Roy who is cycling around NZ.

Day 185

Monday 30th December 2019

Tarawera Cafe to Taupo.

Woke up in the night, (as you do in a tent) - the stars were amazing.

Woke up again in the morning and had porridge and coffee with Roy then set off up the steep climb, (the aptly named Tarawera Pinch), on route to Taupo. The wind was a strong headwind so it was hard going as we climbed onto the plateau.

The scenery was breathtaking - rain forest transformed into meadows as we climbed to the tree line. We could see for miles - it was a fabulously scenic ride.

Sam and Durelle, who we had met in Napier, caught us up in their camper van and we stopped for a very long coffee and muffin break enjoying their company and a break from the wind and the climbing.

The many of drivers continued to drive way to close - as if they resented us on the road - and we got the “usual” abuse from a number of them in spite of being at the side of the road - we genuinely haven’t experienced this anywhere else.

We finally started to descend and could see the beautiful Lake Taupo in front of us. It’s such a beautiful spot. We made it to lake side where we stopped for a drink enjoying the view.

We met Hans Hockey on the Great Ocean Road in Australia. He kindly offered us accommodation in Lake Taupo - so we are staying in Han’s garage.

We had a quick shop at the local supermarket which also offers a home killing service (just in case anyone is in need over the festive period.

We are going to arrive ahead of schedule in Auckland but are having a nightmare with flights. I think it would be easier to get an audience with the Queen than to get Quantus Airlines to return our calls. We resorted to texting - receiving a text message back stating that our booking had been cancelled. Spending the evening trying to sort out flights to the USA for the next stage of our journey.

Day 186

Tuesday 31st December 2019

(New Year’s Eve) Taupo to Cambridge.

We got an upgrade to a back bedroom (from the garage) at Han’s house - which was nice. A big thank you to Hans and Tracey for their hospitality.

We spent breakfast trying to contact Quantus about moving our flight dates forward - we couldn’t get through. Han’s also tried - but in vane. We finally contacted the agent and cancelled the flights and managed to rebook with Air New Zealand. Fingers crossed that they don’t charge us for excess baggage again.

We then tried to get someone at DHL to deliver some new cycling gear courtesy of Stolen Goat - this was a palaver too - we will be heading to NZ customs to get clearance when we get to Auckland.

But.... other than all that.. Lake Taupo in the morning light was beautiful and we got off the main road today along a stunning but very hill route past lakes and dams and through thick rain forest. We saw cyclists on route and some of the ferns that symbolise New Zealand- it was magical but hard work.

We stopped at the Dam Cafe for lunch - chatting with some locals - there were no other opportunities to stop in the afternoon.

We finally arrived in Cambridge famous as the home of cycling in New Zealand - managed to find a campsite and ordered pizza.

I don’t think we will be able to stay awake until midnight but I hope everyone has a happy New Year and adventurous 2020.

Day 187 (New Year’s Day)

Wednesday 1 January 2020

Cambridge to Tuakau.

Today was one of those days when it seemed impossible to actually get on with the day’s ride.

The hills from the day before had taken their toll and we were both feeling tired - we woke up late. We sent Happy New Year messages to family and friends and I chatted to my Mum Audrey Dixon - wishing her Happy New Year. We also applied for ESTA’s (USA visas) as the deadline was today because we fly to the USA on 4 January.

We set off and decided we needed coffee. We stopped. We set off again and decided we needed more coffee and food as it was now mid morning. we stopped.

We finally made through Cambridge, which is a lovely town and really does cater for cyclists - with lots of cycling lanes. We headed through Hamilton with its out of town retail stores lining the route. Ali Jones called - we stopped and said Happy New Year. We were still hungry so we stopped again for lunch. Ari Marsden called - we said Happy New Year. We then got on with cycling through mainly farm land following a river. It was flat but windy.

We then made the mistake of following a cycle lane full a glass which ripped through the back tyre. We stopped! We replaced it and set off again but this time stopping to be interviewed by Radio New Zealand thanks to Tricia Sloan who contacted them.

We then stopped for food before a big climbs with fabulous views in the evening light. The descent however was on a steep gravel road with switch backs which is tricky on a tandem. We then searched for a non existent campsite - but instead found a hotel which was just about to close - fortunately we were able to get a room. A bit of luxury on New Year’s Day. Happy New Year!

Day 188

Thursday 2nd January 2020

Tuakau to Auckland.

Today was our last day of riding in New Zealand. We will be sad to leave. The countryside is stunning - some of the best in the world and we have loved it. We also love the people of New Zealand - the kiwi’s have been incredibly welcoming and supportive. A massive thank you to everyone who helped us.

We have ridden approximately 960 miles- Over mountains, along coastal roads, past lakes, meadows and farms. It has been fabulous.

Today we had a late start leaving the Hotel Tuakau and Carla who took pity on us last night and found us a room as the hotel was closing.

Before we left Tuakau we did an interview with Emily Brookes a journalist with Stuff an on-line publication in New Zealand. We mentioned how welcoming and supportive Kiwis are - but we also mentioned some of our experiences on the roads with drivers driving to close and shouting abuse.

We seem to have caused a bit of controversy - with over 340 comments on the article from it being published this morning. Clearly, road cycling in New Zealand and the attitude of drivers hit a raw nerve - however we note that most of the comments are supportive and other people shared similar experiences. (A link to the article is below -the comments about riding single file are interesting- we are on a tandem and not riding two abreast ).

Today’s ride took us over a few hills and through farmland. The alliums were in bloom and it was lovely. We then rode into the urban sprawl of Auckland heading to our accommodation near the airport.