Week 29 :: TandemWOW

Week 29

12 Jan 2020
Mark

Day 197

Saturday 11th January 2020

Santa Monica to Laguna Beach.

Said our good byes to Kevin (thanks again for the hospitality) - and set off through the iconic streets of LA on route to the beach - stopping first for coffee.

We travelled along Lincoln Boulevard - eventually seeing the ocean and finding a cycle route which went through the beach.

Lots of people where out cycling, dog walking - big and small (often no bigger than a small rodent dressed in clothes - the dog that is), power walking, skateboarding, roller blading - you name it they were doing it - this is LA.

It was nice to be off the roads and cycling along the beach. The surfers were also out searching for the bigger waves. We chatted with people on route including a guy on a tandem.

It was all very relaxed until the cycle route came to an end and we rejoined the Pacific Coast Highway - which was a 6 lane nightmare as the traffic thundered by.

It was slow going as we seemed to catch every traffic light at every intersection. We stopped for vegan cheesecake- don’t know what it was - clearly not cheese - so maybe it should have been called just cake - but it was good.

We eventually found our way back to the beach and another cycle track. It was starting to get dark and the light was beautiful, as was the sunset with its orange glow across the ocean.

We continued riding to Laguna Beach which is full of art galleries. We stopped for pizza (again) and eventually found a motel where the owner kindly gave us a discount - thanks the Laguna Beach Inn.

Day 198

Sunday 12th January 2020

Laguna Beach to Escondido.

Woke up in the beautiful Laguna Beach - went for a quite breakfast to be faced with daytime (early morning) American TV blasting out something, as Brits, we thought would be more suitable “after the watershed”. It was called cheaters - it involved two women scrapping over a bloke - who really didn’t seem worth it.

Anyway... we set off and had second breakfast in a small French cafe - best croissant since Europe.

We were following the coast and found a bike path which took us off the main road - with great views of the Ocean.

We were stopped at the entrance of a US Marine base - cyclists with passes could get through, but we couldn’t so we had to take the Interstate 5 for a stretch- it was fast but incredibly loud - we were glad to get off it.

We arrived in the aptly named Oceanside and found a Denny’s diner. Raz was very well looked after with a whole menu dedicated to the over 55s. I am way too young - so had to stick to the adults menu.

We headed off through Oceanside and caught our final glimpses of the Pacific Ocean before heading inland to start our journey across the USA to Miami.

We found ourselves in no man’s land - at the start of a big climb but not wanting to do it in the dark so we stopped a bit early - ready to start a big climb to Borrego Springs tomorrow climbing through the Anza Borrego Desert .

We are in a budget hotel which has a women outside in need to mental health services explaining to all who will listen (and those who won’t) about certain illicit activities happening in the hotel which in the past involved Lady Diana. (who knew).

Day 199

Monday 13th January 2020

Escondido to Borrego Springs.

Woke early for an early start - as we had a big day of climbing ahead of us.

We found a Denny’s (American Diner), and ordered breakfast. 3 plates of food (each) arrived and I had the biggest pancakes imaginable. The menu shows the caloric value of the food - and it’s safe to say we ate a whole day’s calories in one meal.

There was an eclectic mix of people in the diner including another women chatting to herself, (not the same women as the night before and no mention of Lady Di) and a guy who could have been a member of ZZ Top - we fitted right in.

We started to climb after leaving Escondido and soon started to see desert scenery.

By mid morning we spotted an enormous casino - literally in the middle of no where called Harrahs. We were in need of coffee (in spite of the 3 cups consumed with breakfast) - leaving Alice outside - we went in search.

There was a Starbucks concession with Sister Mary Patrick from Sister Act serving such was her enthusiasm and delight when I took up her offer of a refill for 70cents - although she did demand to see my passport before serving me.

We sat and watched the seemingly miserable people feeding money into the slot machines in an area called “Funnery”.

We set off again continuing to climb. The scenery was increasingly desert like - but also fertile with plants and bushes interspersed in the large rocks lining the route.

We stopped at a Native American reserve for a sandwich - there was a mini casino attached to the shop and petrol station but we resisted.

Apart from two short stretches of downhill - we climbed all day for around 50 miles over 5500ft (nearly 1700m) to a height of over 4200ft.

We then had a specular descent through the Anza-Borrego State Park as the light started to fade. The sky was red as the sun went down reflecting off the huge rocks in the desert it was amazing - but incredibly cold .

By the time we reached Borrego Springs after over 10 miles of steep descent we were borderline hypothermic. It was difficult to find anywhere to stay as it was very dark - but we found somewhere nice but a bit pricey - at least we’ve warmed up.

Day 200

Tuesday 14th January 2020

Borrego Springs to El Centro.

We are amazed that we have been riding for 200 days!

Had an overpriced breakfast at the overpriced hotel. I’ve come to the conclusion that Brits say thank you too much. Americans in reply to thank you say - you’re welcome. The interaction is - as the waitress approaches- thanks - you’re welcome. Drinks on the table - thanks - you’re welcome. Food on the table - thanks - you’re welcome. Cutlery - thanks - your welcome .... and so it goes on. The waitress did ask what we we’re doing - we said cycling around the world - she replied - that’s nice - you have a good day. I think if I’d have said I’d just killed someone in the hotel room she would have replied - that’s nice - you have a good day. I think I’ll try it (not the killing bit).

We spotted a humming bird feeding on nectar outside the hotel and the morning light was amazing as the sun came up behind the mountains.

We set off in the cold but bright morning through the incredibly beautiful Anza Borrego desert. We travelled over the plain with the mountains lining our route. The light continued to be beautiful as the sun got higher - as was the incredibly diversity of plant life.

We saw the Salton Sea (an inland sea) in the distance lined with palm trees. We also saw small oasis of green - again all lined with palm trees.

It was nearly 50 mile before we came across a cafe. We stopped and ate yet more pizza and set off again - heading slightly south to El Centro where we knew we would find somewhere to stay.

We are very close to the Mexican border - it’s tempting to cross it and ride in Mexico but we will probably follow the border staying in the US. We are on route to Tucson- should be there in the next few days.