Week 30

Day 204

Saturday 18th January 2020

Casa Grande to Tucson.

After the epic push and late night of the day before we had an extra 30 mins in bed (we know how to live) and lingered over breakfast until the day warmed up a bit.

Today’s ride was shorter as we continued our progress across the desert to Tucson. The scenery did not disappoint- the red mountains and the desert light were wonderful. By mid morning we were feeling in need a coffee and diverted to a Denny’s where Phil bought us coffee and pancakes.

We set off again on a bumpy road running parallel to the highway. We met Ray who was riding to Tucson with a group of cyclists connected to the University and commemorating Martin Luther King day. Ray had lived in the UK and we chatted to him about his forthcoming cycling trip to New Zealand. We stopped briefly at a very strange shop selling what, at best, can be described as souvenirs then set off again.

We passed a serious accident which had closed the highway. This resulted in a 20 miles tail back along the side road we were travelling along.

We finally made it to the outskirts of Tucson where we met the incredibly generous Michael who has offered us a place to stay. He cycled out to meet us and guided into Tucson. He is still bike racing at 77 years old and has ridden the Race Across America (RAAM) - total respect.

It goes without saying that his house is at the top of a hill but has stunning views of the mountains. We arrived in time for the sunset which was magical and met Michael’s lovely wife Elena who cooked us a fabulous dinner. Brilliant to have home cooking.

Day 205

Sunday 19th January 2020

Tucson to Tombstone.

We enjoyed a lovely breakfast with Michael and Elena looking out over the Tucson hills at first light.

We set off with Michael in his USA jersey, enjoying the downhill into Tucson. We stopped for coffee at Le Buzz and met Louise Dexter who is studying art currently in Phoenix and who has been following our journey. It was great to meet her in person and hear about her travels.

We finally set off following a fabulous bike trail, all off road, out of Tucson. We said our good byes to Michael and finally found ourselves on the Interstate heading up hill into a strong headwind. It was hard work, slow and noisy.

We found a chevron garage where we ate a dodgy looking sandwich and eventually arrived in Benson where a women kindly offered us equipulse therapy - we must have looked as if we needed it.

It was then a long hilly ride to Tombstone. We watched the sun go down over the mountains and the stars come out.

We eventually arrived in Tombstone - famous for its 1880 Western buildings including the OK Coral - which was apparently frequented by Wyatt Earp and Doc Holliday (as well as a John Wayne).

We found a great motel - Larien Motel owned by a lovely women who directed us to the Longhorn restaurant which she checked was still open. We passed the OK Corral on route - we really are in the Wild West.

Day 206

Monday 20th January 2020

Tombstone to Douglas.

Had a bit of a delayed start to the day as I had a job interview (not for part in a western in Tombstone) but via Skype.

Tombstone stages a re-enactment of the gun fight at the OK Coral each day and we saw the gunslingers gathering getting ready for the day’s performance. Apparently on one occasion a pretend cowboy failed to swap his real bullets for blanks - it must have been a very authentic re-enactment that day. We didn’t wait for the show.

We said good bye to the women at the motel. She informed us about how important “the wall” is (which is currently being built along the Mexican border) and checked whether we were carrying weapons. We said that we weren’t (carrying weapons) and she looked concerned. We maybe should stop at one of the gun and pawn shops we’ve seen on route.

We finally headed out of town into a headwind blowing across the prairie. The scenery was stunning - real cowboy country with mountains in the background.

A truck pulled along side - with the occupants waving. We met Alma and Herick who had been following our journey and drove out to meet us. They lived in Douglas - where we were heading. We chatted about our trip and our route for the next few days.

We rode into a small town called McNeal and went in search of a store claiming to sell comfort food. We were in no doubt about the political allegiance of the store owner. The place was covered in Trump flags and posters including a life size cardboard cut out of the President straggling Hillary Clinton - with the caption “ditch the bitch”. The place was charming - but unfortunately had no food other than crisps and chocolate. We settled on two snicker bars and left.

We continued into the headwind towards Douglas on the Mexican border. Alma and Herick caught up with us again bringing us dinner and a bell for Alice. They were incredibly kind.

We arrived in Douglas - a short day on the bike - giving us time to complete our tax returns. We are next to the women’s prison and about a mile from border - planning an early start in the morning!

Day 207

Tuesday 21st January 2020

Douglas to Rodeo.

Woke up to a cold and wet day. We found a fabulous Mexican cafe for breakfast - Mana Cafe in Douglas.

Left the cafe to find that Alice had a puncture (flat) back tire. We went back into the cafe - with Alice - and fixed it in the warm.

By the time we set off (with a bag of free cookies) it was raining heavily. We were soon drenched - our hands and feet were freezing - wet socks and gloves.

I was wearing - a merino jumper, cycling jersey, gilet, cycling jacket, down jacket, and a rain jacket - and was still really cold I have been colder in my life - (infantry training with the Army springs to mind, Tourmalet - in the rain in a summer jersey) - but not often. I was shaking with cold.

Raz was fairing a bit better - but not much. Her hands and feet were freezing too.

I put dry socks on and plastic bags over my feet which I secured with cable ties (don’t try this at home - it’s not a glamorous look).

We had 50 miles to ride to the next town so we just got on with it. Fortunately the wind, although strong, was behind us for most of the ride. We met John a fellow bike packer who was cycling into the wind - clearly hardier than us.

We crossed the border from Arizona into New Mexico. As we were approaching Rodeo we had another puncture. The cafe we were heading for was just closing. They kindly stayed open and made us a sandwich and boiled a kettle for tea. Lifesaver. We fixed the puncture outside the cafe.

We had planned to cycle another 20-30 miles and camp but decided to stay in Rodeo (the last place with accommodation for miles). A helpful women at the cafe called the Chiricahua Museum which had a bunk house.

We arrived - and as no one else was staying we got an upgrade to a lovely room where we are warming up and drying out.

Day 208

Wednesday 22nd January 2020

Rodeo to Columbus.

The weather forecast had indicated that today it was going to be a bright sunny day - but we woke to a cold grey day. That said, the sky was amazing - with low cloud over the mountains as we set off.

We were going to push the mileage today to make up for the mileage we had lost yesterday in the rain and sorting out punctures.

We set off - riding in down jackets to combat the cold. We are heading down Highway 9 - there’s not a lot of traffic (apart from border control trucks and police). The views are fabulous - wide open prairie stretching for miles flanked with red mountains - some with snow. We are also high up - hence it being a bit colder.

The first cafe we came to was closed but we found a grocery shop where we got coffee. We met a guy in his truck wearing a Stetson - who informed us he worked for Border Control - he explained that illegal immigrants of all nationalities were trying to get over the border - including people from Africa and Afghanistan and the wall was therefore important. Currently they are using sensors and drones as well as patrols to police the border. He was pleased that President Trump was trying to do something - but was being stopped by the politicians. He was of the view that many European countries had “lost control” - including France. We (in the UK) had apparently lost control years ago - which was interesting to know (he had been stationed in the UK in the 1970s). It’s always enlightening to hear local views!

We crossed the continental divide. The views were stunning. This area has very little habitation- and you can see for miles - it’s wonderful cycling country.

We made it to the next small town were Jeffrey Sharp who ran the bike house, caught us up. He gave us a bit of advice about accommodation in Columbus.

We finally arrived in Columbus- there are two motels - both were full. We therefore consulted Warmshowers- Fran kindly offered us accommodation in her school bus which she keeps in her yard. Fran lives in a converted garage with her two dogs and her cat- she has solar panels for all of her electricity and there is a shower for the local community. We are warming up in the school bus - as it’s freezing outside.

Day 209

Thursday 23rd January 2020

Columbus to El Paso.

Staying with Fran was an interesting experience. She was lovely and welcoming. All Fran’s electricity is generated by solar. She has a bath in her garden surrounded by a wall made of bottles and is in the process of building a igloo shaped guest house in her garden. Her house, a converted garage, is insulated with straw in the roof. It’s all pretty amazing.

We slept in her school bus - it was chilly but we warmed up in our sleeping bags. It was much more sheltered than being in a tent!

It was a cold morning- Alice had a layer of frost. We set off into Columbus in search of a cafe. We found a Mexican cafe - the only one open - we ordered and got the smallest portions in